The trip from the highlands of Hjerkinn to sea level at Ålesund takes two trains and a bus, weaving through valleys and tunnels (one of which, almost a mile long, makes a horseshoe turn within a mountain; sorry, no photo possible) and along fjords.
Ålsund, obviously, is a port town, which...
...backs up against a steep hill, complete with path to a restaurant on top.
The lower portion is flat enough to be a park, but the steps (and water cascade) are soon steep.
The restaurant has a view all right....
...but also has, to my surprise, and seen frequently , pay toilets!
Looking west out to sea its easy to see how the limited building area resulted in narrow streets and cheek to jowl construction.
This model in the City Museum depicts the town in 1905 when a fire broke out during a gale-force storm...
... burning the area in this photo and more. Builders and architects from around the country and Sweden poured in to rebuild....
...but this time in stone, such as Ålesund Cathedral, and other fire resistant exteriors.
In 1905 the Art Nouveau style was in vogue throughout Europe, and traces of it are found on many of the new structures...the semi-circular arch particularly a favorite.
Towers, turrets, circular windows...they are all here.
Handsome residences....
...and city arcades.
But time marches on, and like cities everywhere, Ålesund wrestles with tear down and build modern, or refurbish and hold on to the old.
One 1905 building has been saved as a museum to the era. Furniture...
...windows....
...and glass object d'art.
Even some Japanese wood block prints, which were very popular in Europe at that time.
Besides art nouveau, the museum also preserves places of work, such as this photo studio.
Being a sea-faring town, its not surprise to see lots of ship models...
...illustrating its maritime history.
Nor unusual is it to see current maritime activity, such as the famous Hurtegrutin Line's ships. They run daily along the west coast, from Bergen to Kirkenes in the extreme northeast of the mainland, or even further north to Svalbard Island.
Originally cargo ships which took passengers as well, ...
...they have become cruise ships which take cargo as well. And like cruise ships every where, time in port is limited, so folks stream out...
...to look in on chandler stores...
...and their array of things of the maritime world, but....
...more, they flock to the tourist trinket shops!
A short walk to the edge of town is a park, with remnants of a German fortification, now used for more peaceful purposes.
There is a solar powered WC, for both the lights and the composting toilet.
It is also home of the Atlantic Ocean Park Aquarium (Torstein Lervik Architects, 1998), with lots cool things, like ...
...Spider Crabs, and ...
... a large tank with a large number of fish. Once a day a diver joins them and creates a feeding, well not frenzy, but at least a fray, while the M.C. points out (in Norwegian and English) the various species.
And of course there is an opportunity to have ones photograph taken with the diver in the background. Hope their flases work, other wise they will get photos like this one!
So where is the Snøhetta connection? I hear you say. Few (any?) of the quay side structures serve a maritime function now, having been repurposed for hotels, restaurants, retail, museums, etc..
The developers of the Hotel Brosundet (2008) asked Snøhetta to preseve the exterior and go high design with the interior (well a touch of modern art in the rusting steel light , ...
...and minimalist benches outside was ok).
Inside they decided to work in as much of the old warehouse with simple furnishings, ...
...lightening and other mechanical devices (note radiator under window).
The bedrooms also have exposed pipes and bare walls, with...
...frosted glass bathrooms.
Larger suites are done with a bit more flare...
...and a larger glass box. Note the notching of the glass around the wooden beam. Also note the traditional way to make up beds: the top sheet and blanket are bundled lengthwise, one set for each person.
This box was large enough for a small soaking tub, in addition to the shower off camera behind.
Time for another hardy breakfast, and then ...
... to move on to Bergen, via a ten hour bus journey.
