"JSGT" (Japan Specialized Group Tours) of Seattle asked me to assist guiding a 12-day tour in May 2019. I had been to many of the destinations, but not too many places on the itinerary. not not at all. Although I questioned whether I wanted to get back in the "tour biz", I took the opportunity. And even cajoled some of my friends in participating!
The organization of the slides is more thematic than geographic, so these map numbers (right to left, how Japanese!) will be used in captions if you wish to know where the photo was taken. By the way, the banner photo above is of the Japanese Alps, seen from Toyama Prefecture, which is north up the coast from Miyazu [5]. I am scheduled to assist with another tour in that area in 2021. Get in touch!
WELCOME to high design Japan! Many a journey starts at Narita Airport [1] and some lucky ones' first night is here.
Many a hotel has a wedding chapel, but not many such an exuberant art glass window above the alter.
And many have an expansive breakfast buffet....
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...however, this is the first time to see such a honey pot.
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Many tours transfer from Narita to Tokyo by JR Express Train, but this tour wish to experience more local modes so an inter-urban train took us to....
...Haneda Airport, which was where I first arrived in 1963. There have been some changes.
Our route to Matsue [9] goes past Mount Fuji [4} and luckily she was clear, still with some late spring snow.
Also over-flown was Miyazu [5] and it's sand and pine tree crescent "Bridge of Heaven", If observed upside down, (most easily done by bending over and looking through one's legs), its concave shape looks like a suspended bridge, arcing across the bay to Paradise. Maybe it looked more that way before the opposite shore was developed.
The art "manhole" cover took Japan by storm in the 1980's, and it is going strong...especially with colors. This depicts a Matsue, Shimane symbol, the Meiji Era (1868-1912) 20' tall stone lantern light house in Shirakata Park by Lake Shinji. The somewhat faded orange color indicates its an underground fire hydrant, with clear warning "No Parking"!
We did not get over to see it, but I found this nice shot on-line.
However we did get to the Edo Era (1603 - 1867) Castle (1610), one of only 12 remaining originals and one of five which are designated National Treasures. It is called the "Plover" due to its many flaring hip roof lines.
Nearby is a street with many of that era's samurai residences ...
... the most famous of which is the residence of ....
.... Lafardio Hearn (1850-1904). Although not a samurai, (he was Greek-Irish) he married into a samurai family, taking his wife's family name, Koizumi, with the given name, Yakumo. He introduced Japan to the West through many newspaper/magazine articles and books.
This semi-circular window at floor level is quite unusual ...
... as is the propped up shutter on the outside.
The rear garden is a simple stream of bluish stones ...
... with a water-spouting former roof ornament in a corner.
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With declining population the service industry is embracing technology. and leaving it up to the customer to place orders....woe to the person who pushes a picture of an unidentified fleeting object...a "Loco Moco" nigiri?
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The city of Izumo [10] also has a light house on this sewer utility cover. The Hinomisaki Lighthouse (1903), at 141 feet, is the tallest in Japan; we did not go climb it.
...but we did go to THE BIG draw in town, Shinto's Izumo Grand Shrine, which dates back to the
"Age of Gods", that is, "Who knows?". As with Shinto shrines in general, Izumo as a series of exterior, interior, exterior etc. spaces. The two legged Torii gate is the symbol of a shrine's entry, with a large exterior space behind.
"Age of Gods", that is, "Who knows?". As with Shinto shrines in general, Izumo as a series of exterior, interior, exterior etc. spaces. The two legged Torii gate is the symbol of a shrine's entry, with a large exterior space behind.
From the side, over the fence around the it, rises the Honden, (1744, renovated every 60 years) the main sanctuary. To the right is...
... the Haiden, (1959) with its massive 4.5 ton straw SHIMENAWA and coin box in front. It is as far as most visitors may go, and look into ...
... the smaller exterior space with the Honden beyond.
The sake barrels sure out class the beer plastic containers.
sNear Kamakura [3] is the island of Enoshima, with three shrines dedicated to Benzaiten, a popular goddess of good fortune, wealth, and music, often portrayed holding a lute.
The main gate straddles only the first few of many steps up and down the craggy isle.
From Shinto to gardens...
... starting in Yasugi, Shimane [8] with the Adachi Museum of Art, which consciously does not use "Garden" in its name. The founder, Zenko Adachi (1899-1990) had his garden built as something to see, not be in.
Of course there are many "view" gardens, which one visits without entering, but ...
... behind glass is a whole new twist.
Its not totally glassed off, there are places open to the air ...
... and places with"happy snappy" rocks for photos with garden scenery backgrounds.
The garden elements are only a part of the museum's large collection of art and crafts; sometimes the two get close together.
Here is another place with no glass barrier, but with stepping stones just waiting to be put to work by folks strolling across them, but the polite yet adamant bamboo fence says "STOP".
Possibly this visitor has the right idea, a cup of tea and a crumpet in the cafe, while gazing upon the garden.
Our lunch was nearby in shop...
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...for tempura soba. Guess it was good!
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Yes, Virginia, there are places in Japan without hi-speed rail lines; their limited expresses evoke a bit of nostalgia in "old Japan hands".
And then there are places with only hi-speed rail...it feels like being on an airplane.
And for those really seeking nostalgia there are trollies with faux historic cars ...
.. .with side bench seating and strap hangers as well.
Servicing very local areas, somehow not yet replaced by buses, one sees school kids studying or chatting ...
... or being bugged by foreign tourists.
Another large stroll garden (which one can stroll in) is Koraku-en in Okayama [7]. It was built in 1687 by the feudal lord on an island across the river from his castle, providing him with a view of the garden from it, as well as "capturing a view" of the castle from the garden.
An earthern bridge built on timber structure and a log base contrasts with ...
... a zig-zag plank bridge. Zig-zag's are often found among iris, and so is this somewhat contrived scene.
But this grove of timber bamboo is more natural looking...with marvelous new shoots rearing upwards.
Somewhat unusual now, large Edo Stroll gardens often kept birds and animals, especially the Red Crowned Crane, a symbol of good fortune and longevity.
Odateishi (Large Standing Stone) was so desired but so hard to move it was broken into pieces (29?) , transported, and reconstructed. Ah, Feudal Lords had deep kimono sleeves.
Large stroll gardens were built for pleasure (and agriculture...Korakuen has rice and tea!), not for religious reasons, but the deities of Shinto are everywhere, so to keep them content, such small shrines are common.
Speaking of feudal lords and stones, in Kyoto [6] ...
...the Shogun TOKUGAWA Iyasu built a large castle with gardens and lots of stones....
...sort of the "if one stone is good, a thousand stones in better" philosophy of garden design. But probably it was the symbol of power: "Its hard, its expensive and I can get it done". Don't mess with me!" (Oh I'm showing my uncouth understandings, aren't I?)
Southern cycads? Expensive to bring north, expensive to maintain in winter snows...like the stones....
A pretty large park for Kyoto CIty to maintain, but the tourist ticket sales are strong, and, I suspect, the fee to have one's wedding here is pretty high.
I like photos of noren curtains, and ...
... I also like to look in on toilets...one just never knows when there will be one fully compliant ADA.
Tokyo [2], when it was Edo, saw the construction of many feudal lords' gardens, and then later with earthquakes, war and development their destruction, but there are survivors...or re-construted ones, such as Kyu-Yasuda. It was started in 1691 and known for its ponds which rise and fall due to its connection to the tidal Sumida River.
A pretty good example of an island which evokes a turtle, a symbol of Daoist Paradise, and often found in garden ponds (wet ones and dry ones).
Speaking of Daoism, Chinese garden design has influenced Japan's since the 4th and 5th centuries. I see it in this bridge.
For an example of a View Garden, its back to Kyoto [6] where particularly the Zen Sect of Buddhism has built many...
...such as Kinnen-ji Temple's Hōjō Garden. The temple is the oldest Zen one in Kyoto, founded in 1202 and reconstructed many times. The garden dates from Momoyama (1569-1603).
Many visitors do indeed come to sit on its verandah and view it.
Chō'on-tei (Sound of the Tide Garden) (2006) is a much smaller view garden, but viewed from all four sides. The three standing stones, behind the ladies, evoke the Buddha and two faithful attendants.
So its not a restaurant noren but it's time for dinner....
Back to Shinto for a moment with the Main Gate to Kyoto's Shimogamo Jinja Shrine ...
... and the Haiden of Heian Jingu Shrine with ...
... side buildings, showing Chinese influence in design and coloring.
The buildings are impressive but its the garden which attracts visitors. This covered bridge design is quite Chinese but the coloring is an example of the Japanization of the original.
With lots of visitors cautionary signs are often necessary, but...
...some visitors just won't pay heed!
Ah, iris, water, Yukimi (Snowing Viewing) Stone Lantern...classic scene.
To the Northeast of Kyoto, in Ohara, is Sanzen-in: Main Building from 985, rebuilt 1143, gardens from Edo Period.
The manicured foreground contrasts with its "natural" fence, and gives an aura of peace and quiet, but..
...for many its just another pretty place to take a photograph.
Nearby is an old farm house, now restaurant...
...with a simple noren and...
...and a fabulous chef, preparing...
... an amazing assortment of dishes served on equally engaging assortment of serving dishes.
Back to Mt. Fuji [4], this time on the ground, to visit Itchiku Kubota Art Museum, near Lake Kawaguchi-ko.
A wildly eclectic collection of artifacts and buildings surround and contain ...
...an equally amazing collection of textile art pieces. Kubota resurrected a Muromachi Era (1336-1573) silk dying technique and has been creating large pieces in the shape of a woman's kimono.
A multi-kimono piece is entitled "Symphony of Light". Kubota plans for the completed work to have 80 pieces!
The hillside behind the buildings is a very naturalistic "garden", a piece of it seem through windows of the cafe.
Yes, one more utility cover, this one from Kamakura [3].
It's the Kanagawa Prefecture Water Department's, with symbols of the official flower (Golden-rayed Lily), bird (Seagull) and tree (Ginkgo). Since it is an underground fire hydrant it is surrounded in orange paint. Best not park over it!
Once the capital of the Kamakura Shogunate (1185-1333), it now is a tourist and summer sea-side destination.
There are some Buddhist things to see and visit while walking around the city:
A collection of red-bibbed statues of Jizō, considered to be the guardian of children, alive as well as deceased.
In a small cemetery, a relief of the ever present Kannon Bodhisattva (Guanyin) with lotus bud over shoulder and water vessel in hand.
And often found in temple entry gates, a Niō guardian, warding off evil spirits. But Kōtoku-in temple doesn't have an entry gate, it has...
the Daibutsu, as the stone reads: "National Treasure: Kamakura Great Buddha". Cast in 1252 or so, it was housed in a great temple halls, which were again and again destroyed by storms. A tsunami washed away the last one in 1498 and it has been outdoors since.
After inspecting it for traces of its original gold covering, its time for a group photo or sit and ponder the Buhhait and the statue of a lotus bud shielded by a leaf.
We went to a few museums, one of which near Kyoto [6] is the Miho Museum (1997), built by Mihoko Koyama, founder of a new religion, Shinji Shumeikai (1970). Designed by I.M. Pei, using a theme based on...
...... the Chinese tale of the "Peach Blossom Spring". In short a fisherman followed a trail through flowering peach trees (well can't have blossoms all the time) ...
... and then through a narrow grotto ...
...coming out into a Paradise. So here it's a road through a tunnel coming out at an art museum, but you get the idea.
It's a popular destination, and this day held a Special Exhibition, with many people lined up to see it.
Photography in the galleries is not allowed, so I had to find one I really wanted on line. Not only for the statue of Buddha (Gandhara, 2nd C. CE) but also with the skylight. It is said Ms. Koyama acquired it during design and wished a place for it. Pei found a spot, but he wanted natural light on it, so with some structural gymnastics worked one in.
Unable to take my own photo of that skylight, I had to settle shooting one in the vehicle entry around back, which by the way, has terrific acoustics. Greg on harmonica proved it.
A visit to Tokyo [2] would not be complete....
.... without going to the Edo-Tokyo Museum (Kiyonori Kikutake, 1993). From large scale models to...
...to small (they provide binoculars), it covers the history of the founding of Edo in 1590, through its transformation to Tokyo in 1868 and up to 1964. Yes, it requires a day to see it all.
Of particular interest was this model of a feudal lord's 1650's Edo residence and garden, which, in order to see the garden, the foreground buildings are represented only in floor plan.
On a slightly smaller scale is the Tokyo Sword Museum (Fumihiko Maki, 2017).
The rather tough exterior softens inside to precise geometric design, and...
...refined simplicity of the exhibition space.
An engraving (horimono) of a "Dragon and Pearl" motif.
Another traditional craft is pottery, carried on in many towns such at Shigaraki, near Kyoto [6] where we ...
... we were welcomed by a pottery standing lantern ...
...then racks of pieces waiting to be fired.
In the shed in back Takashashi-san was getting a bisk kiln fired up.
For final glaze firing they are one of the last in the area to use a wood burning climbing kiln.
In the residence, rooms have been turned into galleries.
...Ms. Takahashi played host (she is also a potter) to ...
... a delighted group of visitors.
Back in Kyoto, we visited my friend Richard Steiner, ...
...guiding and assisting passage over the Kamo River ...
... to visit his woodblock studio. In 2020 he will mark his 50th year living in Japan and doing woodblocks.
He explains the process of turning a sketch into a woodblock, and then making a print from it. Check out his website:
https://www.richard-steiner.net and look him up when in Kyoto.
https://www.richard-steiner.net and look him up when in Kyoto.
Well, it is high time to say "Good Night!", oh bleary eyed photo- blog reader. Thanks for joining me on this episode of a "Wandering Duck".
